( Overview
/ Two Bullocks on a Boat Go West
Wish this was the weather! Henri and Pascale sent this photo of me (singlehanded yachts-person?) leaving Glengarriff the other day.
Sadly the weather was very, very wet rain. Even after the short walk to the showers (hooray) and washing machines we were soaked. The tent got steamier and steamier. After doing a few bits for work, and ‘boatwork’, however, we ventured out.
Options for overland travel to Castletownbere, the main town, are to catch Murphy’s ferry near us and either walk or get a taxi on the other side, or walk etc on this side, and catch the Bere Island ferry which takes you straight into town. We planned on the former.
When asking about taxis, John and Valerie on yacht Thika kindly offered us a lift to the Bere Island ferry, as they were going across too. Boarding the ferry as foot passengers, it was like a steeple chase as we either jumped or waded through 6 inches of water between the ferry and land ramps.
Castletownbere ferry ramp.
As it was still pouring with rain, the best option seemed to be a Guinness in the famous McCarthy’s Bar.
Becoming more and more wet, we took a cursory walk around town.
Castletownbere is the largest white fish port in Ireland with up to 70 Irish fishing boats working out of the port and up to 20 European fishing boats landing fish on the quays. There are also 3 fish processing factories employing 250 people.
There were quite a few fishermen in the bars, many of them a long way from home.
Once again we were put in a cubicle in Breen’s Restaurant and enjoyed a crab gratin, before getting a taxi back to Murphy’s ferry.
Murphy’s Ferry is meant to go into the ramp near the marina, but because there were so many cars waiting, the skipper decided to drop us off in the middle of the island, a shorter route across, so he could return to pick up more people.
All the other passengers climbed the ‘crew only’ ladder to chat to the skipper in the wheelhouse. Paying the fare seems hit and miss, as it’s only when you offer - then a figure is plucked out of the air.
Leaving Murphy’s Ferry pontoon on the mainland.
The rain did abate a little.
This route across takes you past the wreck of the Bardini Reefer.
A Panamanian registered factory ship, she was at anchor when she caught fire and sank in 1982. She was built in 1956 with a carrying capacity of 3976 gross tonnage. A factory ship is one which accompanies a fishing or whaling fleet with facilities for immediate processing of the catch.
Coming into Bere Island Boatyard. The skipper arranged a lift back to the marina with a crew member, Jeffrey, who lives on the island. It seems that even if (and it’s a big if) people leave the island for a few years, they return to settle down to the simple life in a friendly community.
It also seems there is no need for driving licences, insurance or NCTs (MOTs). We’ve seen wrecks of cars still being used, and apparently it’s safer to drive to and from the bar as everyone else does. When walking it’s best to dive in a hedge or off the road when a car passes.
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