Vladimir and Suzdal are part of the Golden Ring, an area north-east of Moscow, which in Soviet times was preserved as a "theme park" (essentially) of churches, cathedrals, monasteries and Kremlins. It means that you can find churches with their original decorations, and lots of coloured onion domes, along with UNESCO listed "White monuments of Vladimir and Suzdal".

It was where we saw the most tourists to date, but to be honest most of them were domestic tourists. We saw a few backpackers which was exciting (but not close enough to talk to), however we found out later that they were cheating and had Russians with them. Other than them, we once again hardly heard English.

We stayed in Vladimir, as it is on the main Trans-Siberian line and therefore easy to get to and from and would be our last stop before Moscow.

Vladimir was former capital of Rus (back in 12th/13th Century) and was nice, lots of good places to eat and drink. We wandered round the old area and went into a church which cost money, so I took photos.

We successfully caught a bus to Suzdal - which meant running the gauntlet of the bus ticket counters, which were busy and had old ladies who decided that they would push in - and therefore caused rows (and delays). We were glad that we got there a bit early as it meant we got seats (the tickets have seat numbers - and if they don't, then you stand). Suzdal is about a 50 minute drive from Vladimir.

I had read that the bus station at Suzdal is about 2km from the old town, but you could buy tickets from the driver when you got to the bus station and he would take you into the old town. Not trusting this information we got off, only to see the bus head into the old town... well the walk was nice at least. The bus we got back in the evening had a sign on it saying that the tickets to the old town were 19 roubles.

Suzdal is like a bit of a fairy tale town, with a big tourist market, and a large concentration of old, pretty buildings.

We spent the day going from one church to another basically. I am glad I have my head scarf with me at all time.

The highlight of the Kremlin was a Cathedral with some original 16th Century paintings, which were pretty spectacular. We were even treated to a small performance by a quartet of male singers who were advertising/selling their CD of medieval choir music. It sounded pretty special in the acoustics of the cathedral - not that we bought the CD.

All in all, it was quite interesting to wander round both towns, one a bigger city that seems like a working city with some pretty churches etc (like we have been seeing all along), and the other a "open museum", often what they call an "ethnographic museum" in these parts.

Next stop Moscow, where we have been before, and where we are staying in a Hilton in one of Stalin's Seven Sisters. Lucky as Luke has caught a cold.