Looking back on the days drive from the dust and camels of the Gobi, to the green, trees and yaks of the Orkhon Valley, it was really a startling difference.

We had the OG in the car today, and Taivna so there were lots of "Nov shores" and "oh my gads" during the drive. Kept it a bit interesting.

The bromance between Taivna and Luke continues unabated and today Luke learned how to ask for a kiss, much to the hilarity of the other drivers (the bromance is well acknowledged).

We stopped for a hike to a monastery, it was a 3km hike through beautiful flower covered country and up through a pine forest... then the storm hit! Not sure anyone had checked the weather forecasts, but it was ferocious, with thunder, lightning and 3 lots of hail (only pea size but it hurts!). Needless to say, I lost my sense of humour about half way back from the top, around the second lot of hail. We got to the top before the sky really opened, but coming down was treacherous. We didn't see the monastery after all that as you had to climb further steps and it was just a no-go. Luke was disappointed he didn't see the monastery. I was pleased I made it down without falling or slipping. I think it will take a couple of days before the shoes dry!

Our Ger for that night was probably one of the crappiest we have stayed in to date. However, we were sharing the dining room with a group of young backpackers on a tour. Luke and I really wanted to find out what they were doing so we could let them know how hardcore we were. Thankfully I bumped into their tour leader in the loo and was able to find out that her group was on a 5-day tour of Mongolia before they were put back on the train for their 7 day tour through Russia.

Don't worry gentle readers, I managed to fit into the conversation that Luke and I were in Mongolia for a whole month and then were in Russia for 5 weeks before heading to Belarus for 3 weeks. She was suitably impressed and I hope that she was able to pass on to her group how hardcore we were.

Next day we were in Kharkhorin, which was the capital city of Mongolia when Chinggis Khan was in charge, it remained that way for a few centuries until Kublai Khan moved his capital to Beijing. It was then an important site as it had a large monastery founded in the 16th Century and had one of the only Tibetan buildings in Mongolia. Luckily it was one of the show monasteries and therefore a number of temples and the Tibetan building were saved.

There were a lot of local tourists at the monastery so our guided-tour increased by quite a few locals as we went round, they weren't subtle about listening in either, not like we would do, ie quietly listening in whilst looking in the opposite direction.

That being done, we went to the museum, which was surprisingly new and well laid out, and then to other sight-seeing spots, such as "Penis rock" (which was rather disappointing in size... hehehe...) the Mongolia Monument and a viewing spot to see where the old city would have been (there is nothing left).

We had lunch today at a family Ger, and met their cat Mischa, she looked like she is one tough pussy cat, but still purred up a storm when patted.

Whilst people were waiting on the horse riding to start (we decided to pass this time), Luke was challenged to another wrestle, this time with Muugie (the lead driver). He is 41, so more evenly matched. Luke held his own for a lot longer, and at one point I thought Luke might have had him, but unfortunately not. Both of them were left puffing at least.

At dinner that night Jagga (Muugie's older brother) was challenged to an arm-wrestle by Sandford (the American with the video camera). It was declared a tie as Luke helped Sandford out by telling Jagga that he wanted a kiss (in Mongolian). Jagga promptly dissolved into laughter. Jagga possibly has the least English of the drivers and is a bit of a burly guy, however he is such a sweet guy. A real gentle soul.

That evening we discussed ages with Jagga in particular, and found out that he is only 45, we all thought he was well into his 50s! He thought Luke was 35. I guess Jagga is a product of what living in the harsh Mongolian climate does. Female ages did not get discussed, but I think we were all wondering what they thought.

As I sit and write this now, I am outside our Ger, having bathed in hot springs (Luke snores gently inside). The scenery has changed once again and we have lush rolling green hills with pine trees. There are meadows of wildflowers (including wind geraniums and some flowers I swear I grew in my garden in England). We have Kites (the birds) circling overhead and ground squirrels frolicking. All very idyllic. I got a bit burnt today, so that was annoying.

We are now just over half way through our tour. There have been no fights or arguments. I think we have found the people we enjoy spending time with, but aren't too upset if we don't. I know they say about overlanding that if you can't think of the really annoying person, it is probably you, I think on this trip we do have annoying people, but not so much to cause real issues. The couple who have possibly the worst reputation are the older British couple who like to stick to their timetable (rather than ours) and we are often waiting for them to arrive or finish taking photo's. Our non-English speaking drivers have a sign for them... they hold their hands up to their eyes like binoculars (amusing, but I wonder what they say about us). We have made the most effort to learn Mongolian words, even if they are mostly swear words and insults that can't be used in polite company. At least that means we can sort of communicate??!